Young chef and Durham College (DC) Culinary Skills alumna Victoria Rinsma recalls first learning about the S. Pellegrino Young Chef Academy competition as a student from Raul Sojo, executive chef of DC’s teaching-inspired restaurant Bistro ’67. Today she’s the Canadian finalist, and headed for the world competition in Milan, Italy, next fall.

Rinsma’s winning dish was called “Across the Sea and Home Again,” a two-part meal that includes a chawanmushi (Japanese savory egg custard) made with smoked ham hock, and a main course of striped bass with nixtamalized butternut squash and preserved tomatoes.

Rinsma says her dish represents her culinary journey, with the first part an ode to her grandmother’s split pea soup and the second to her culinary development and especially the influence of her mentor Rafael Covarrubias, executive chef at the Michelin-star Hexagon Restaurant in Oakville, Ontario, where Rinsma has worked for the past six years and is now sous chef.

“I wanted the dish to convey my story, all the people I’ve met and the cultures I’ve practiced cooking,” said Rinsma.

S. Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition is now in its sixth edition and receives submissions from more than 1,000 young chefs from 15 countries worldwide. The Canadian final was held at George Brown College in October, where each chef had five hours to produce their signature dish before presenting it to a panel of top chef judges. Rinsma’s win was a culmination of months of training with her mentor (a previous Pellegrino competitor) who worked with her on timing, flavours and process.

Rinsma has known she wanted to be a chef from an early age, and recalls watching cooking shows with her grandmother, pretending to stir pots of water alongside the chefs. Calling her grandmother an excellent home cook and the inspiration for her own professional aspirations, Rinsma started cooking seriously herself in high school. Growing up in Pickering, Durham College was a natural choice for her training, and Rinsma threw herself into both the program and into the mentorship she found at Bistro ’67. 

“I can’t say enough good things about the program and my experience. I dove in and did as much as I could. I started working in the Bistro in my first year—I was really keen. When Chef Raul started, we worked really well together, and he even allowed me to be part of menu development,” said Rinsma, adding that she even first heard of her current restaurant Hexagon while at DC.

Now that she is focused on competing in Milan, Rinsma knows that she will have many more hours of training ahead as she refines her dish even further and steadies herself for the challenges of competition.

“I’ll have to prepare myself mentally for that, the first round was a lot, and the finals will be even more,” says Rinsma, noting that her mentor also went to Milan, so she plans to call on his expertise along with the rest of the advisors she is gathering around her, calling it a team effort.

“It was not just me that was in the competition, it was a huge group effort, and I’m lucky enough to be the face of it.”